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Posts tagged with “japan”...


December 14 2008

Photos from Japan, Part 4. As I said, these are by no means all of them, and I did my best to keep out any landscape, landmark, or tourist pictures. These are just for stories. See my PicasaWeb for the full set.

 

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Photos from Japan, Part 3. These are by no means all of them, and I did my best to keep out any landscape, landmark, or tourist pictures. These are just for stories. See my PicasaWeb for the full set.

Yes, one of me that I snuck in.

 

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Photos from Japan, Part 2. These are by no means all of them, and I did my best to keep out any landscape, landmark, or tourist pictures. These are just for stories. See my PicasaWeb for the full set.

And more to come.

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Photos from Japan, Part 1.

Some photos from my recent month in Japan. Characters and settings aplenty. Use ‘em before I do. These are by no means all of them, and I did my best to keep out any landscape, landmark, or tourist pictures. These are just for stories. See my PicasaWeb for the full set.

 More to come.

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November 21 2008

Nihon de Update #6: Tropics haz ur flutterbys

last quick update before we’re back stateside. Quick because this spacebar is sticky and that makes me worried since i’m surrounded by Manga.
 
Anyhow, island life has had a different pace. It took a couple days to get used to after our crazy week of mountaineering, but we’ve found our stride. The only moment of drama this week has been angie’s shriek after returning from her post-nap japanese style shower to discover a 6-inch furry spider a meter from my sleeping head. Poor guy was truly more scared than her, pulling its legs in close and trying to hide, which was convenient since he left a much smaller splotch when i squashed him. just kidding. i scooped him up and put him outside. killing spiders in japan is bad luck since they eat all the roaches.
 
So they days have been characterized by wind-soundtracked naps and long walks to various beaches and vistas followed and led by countless flapping multicolored flutterbys, scrutinized by fearless gaijin-mocking crows, and kept in step by more 6-inch spiders hanging on fine threads from palm trees. we have managed to stay sober during the day, but don:t applaud us since thats mostly due to the lack of the usual omnipresent japanese beer vending machines. this island is as non-touristy and non-developed as ive ever seen, aside from the club med tucked into a corner of the island i’m convinced no one ever goes to. buses run about twice a day, late morning and early afternoon, and though the signs say they open at 10am, nothing actually opens until at least 11. which has been just fine. this is pronounced by it being "winter" here, which means the water temperature dropped 2 degrees from heavenly to perfect only for mortals, and the divers wuss out and sleep all day instead. Tatsu, our inn-keeper has exemplified this.
 
Tatsu has also helped direct our nightly japanglish meetings. Aside from the couple from Spain we met and drank with the first two nights (both airtraffic controllers who met and married in controller training 20 years ago, its been all-locals evenings at Pulau, the one bar in the bay run by cute little barefooted Noriko who remembers everyones name, and her little barstool-sitting t-shirt wearing puppy named Happy. Aside from Orion, the okinawan draft, and awamori, the okinawan high-proof sake, ishigaki has a microbrew which makes 5 kinds of delicious and authentic german beers: weiss, hefewiess, dunkel, pilsner, and something else. by the end of each night noriko has been sold out as we swapped japanglish lessons with Tatsu (former salaryman in tokyo turned sushi chef turned diver), his wife (former salaryman in tokyo turned innkeeper and diver), their friend (former salaryman in tokyo turned diving instructor), and two other of their friends (former salaryman in tokyo turned diving instructors). do you see the pattern? i:m sure now that the only people who live here are innkeepers or divers, though they dont dive now that its "winter".
 
hey miki, since you say theres so much competition for diving schools, and you only dive half the year, what do you do for money the rest of the time?
 
oh, no, nothing.
 
uh, ok. the follow up question was lost in translation.
 
 
and that’s that. on our way to main okinawa island for a day then to tokyo and then back stateside.
 
 
ja, mata raishu,
s & a
 
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November 16 2008

Nihon de Update #5: Japan haz ur giant bugs

At the moment, an island version of Alphaville’s Forever Young is playing (think Napoleon Dynomite). We’ve also heard Paul Simon’s the Boxer and MJ’s Beat It plucked on three little resonant strings. I’m amazed we found an internet cafe on this tiny little island of Ishigaki, further south than Okinawa, a skip away from Taiwan. No one here speaks english. No one.

In fact, on our way down here this morning, a three-foot tall japanese lady insisted on asking us over and over again in japanese for bus instructions despite fully understanding that we didn:t speak japanese. Her size and the size of the spacebar on this wacky keyboard is in sharp contrast to the three-times size of all the insects in this country. Apparently relative size is something doled out from a master bag of proportionality.

Anyhow, here we are after five days in Kyushu (japan’s southernmost mainland island). Five days covering 8 mountains, 5 temples nestled in those mountains, 160 kilometers, about 5km total vertical elevation, all on bicycles or on foot through some incredible countryside. Grizzly Peak, you will be our bitch. Legs arent even sore anymore, probably due to the nightly trips to bathhouses. Our guide was a lovable lunatic and deserves far more than an email to explain him. He did it all with construction boots and a 5 inch piece of titanium in his shoulder that was placed there in August after a bad bicycle crash, and which will be removed in another 5 days. We could hardly bitch about the inclines since he did it with a pink bow locking one arm to his chest, while still carrying a pack on the good shoulder. In 5 minutes Joe (goofy white guy from Homer Alaska) could have the business card of any little japanese girl he saw. Still, I cannot believe what "trails" we followed him up.

So here we are on this subtropical island. Out our hotel window is Kabira bay, one of two places in the world where they cultivate black pearls, surrounded by mangrove groves whose thick twisted above-ground roots look like they’re sucking the magma right from the pale blue ocean’s core without any bashfulness. Between the mangroves and black pearl farms is the largest reef of blue coral in the world, but thats been kinda tough to appreciate since i think we’ve been in the middle of a typhoon for the past 24 hours, despite the laughter of our hostess when i say "typhoon des ne?" stupid americans.

But the rain appears to be stopping, and yes, its time for another beer.

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November 7 2008

Nihon de Update #4: Killer beez haz ur buzzz

This’ll probably be the last update for a while since we’re heading to Hiroshima tomorrow (to get our bomb on), and then we’ll be in hot springs/mountain country on the move for a week so contact will be…well, i don’t think there will be any at all.
 
But…I would like to leave you with the following brief tale from our evening just after i sent the last-message on obama night.
Remember AJ, the ex-pat I mentioned with whom we watched the CNN coverage? Well, he marked on our map a few "tiny, family owned" places to check out, including one whose sole identifier is a picture of a wild boar outside. The owner apparently specialized in boar and sake, so trust him, AJ said. High on Obama fumes, we went in search of it, though we unfortunately couldn’t have a celebratory "Peace" (that’s the brand) cigarette on the walk since we had no lighter. We found the place, tiny and dungeon-esque, with a very smily owner and one other Japanese man at the counter. He waved us in. I mentioned AJ, "that Amerika-jin" and the owner nodded in understanding with a grin on his face. Hmmm. Always a good thing.
 
We sat down, a mini-fire pit in the table, he brought us a menu with kanji characters only, and kindly translated for us.
We ordered:
Barbequed wild boar (house specialty)
Mountain vegetables (tray of 6 different kinds)
Horse meat sashimi (sorry mom, I had to try…it’s a delicacy here)
 
Angie and I nodded, loving the place immediately.
 
Our food was brought, and it was delicious. Aoki-san (owner) seemed surprised I’d eat the horse, but it was rippled and beautiful and just like thick beef carpaccio, only a bit less beefy.
 
Then Aoki-san brought us a "taste" on a plate:
 
Locusts. Candied in soy and ginger. 
Bees. Sauteed in bee larvae.
 
Delicious. The locusts crunched like crisps. Saying "fuck it" to Angie’s childhood allergy to bee stings, we tried ‘em and liked ‘em quite a bit. Ate em up.
 
One sake down, and all his weird foods enjoyed, Aoki pulled out a plastic drum and poured off a glass of home brewed (two years) plum wine. Best plum wine ever. Seeing our smiles, as we plucked locust legs and crunched them while drinking his home brew, he tilted the overhead lamp onto the top of a dusty off-kilter refrigerator, illuminating an array of dusty glass bottles half-filled with clear liquid, each with some sort of dead animal waiting at the bottom. Cool, we say. Neat, I think, they must be his little menagerie collection of snakes or whatnots in formaldehyde since he’s such an avid hunter. We walk over, smiling. Rattlesnake. Cobra. Some weird giant turnip. An entire swarm of giant fucking bees. Killer bees he says. That is clear. 3 inches long. Two bites, you’re dead he says. Cute, we think. From Indonesia, he says. Wow, we say. 
 
Then he pulls the bottle down, grabs a sake glass, fills it with the killer bee liquid, and hands it to me. Good sake, he says, very strong, two years old.
 
Fuck it. Down the hatch. If i die, this is a good way. Dont’ go to hell second class, as they say.
Damn good, damn strong. Packs a mean buzz.
 
Oh man, that was a terrible joke. Hehehehe.
 
Angie says "hell, i’ve already eaten bees, why not." Down the hatch. Aoki pulls one of them mean fuckers out and shows us its 3-inch length between its chopsticks. I have the photo. It will be framed.
 
Well, if you liked that, you’ll love this rattlesnake sake…it’s almost 4 years old, and superstrong.
Yup, sure was. Kinda like tsoika only without the plum.
 
We cleared our plates, including some amazing fried tofu, drank all the drinks, and yes, had a mean buzz. We expressed our thanks and love for sweet sweet Aoki-san. We tried to give him a big tip on this 40 buck extravaganza, but he wouldn’t let us. Instead, he gave us each a lighter as a gift, and thanked us so much for coming.
 
Killer bee sake. Mmm. hmmm. Woke up the next morning feeling good.
 
mmm,
s
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November 5 2008

Nihon de Update #3: An Amerika-jin desu

Hi kids…
 
we’re sitting in the kyoto international center, chatting with an american expat from richmond california by way of richmond virginia…who’s lived in kyoto for 25 years after hopping a flight from tibet. We’re watching cnn on the big-screen and smiling looooong overdue smiles of american pride. so long we almost forgot what it felt like. So,i had to drop a quick note.
 
being out of the country for this is quite an experience. flipping on the tv sitting on our tatami mat floor for 5 min in the morning to try and decipher the japanese coverage where even when they’re showing americans talking, you can’t hear them because of the translation. trying to figure out what the fuck the numbers on the screen mean, and why their obama/mccain graphs look more like a japanese gameshow than news coverage, complete with goofy price-is-right noises. realizing that every white person you see is not actually american, but most likely european, and probably dutch or finnish, or some other "alternative" european country, and they don’t speak your language either.
 
but mostly…seeing all the I-Heart-Obama headbands on japanese heads, and sitting down in this large hall in kyoto with expats all around, and finally, finally, hearing english coverage…walking in just as obama’s acceptance speach was beginning, and casting a deep sigh, squeezing a tight hug, and feeling the pride that eloquence and presidentialness and intelligence and hope and populism are, at least for now, the driving ideals of our country. it feels fucking good. and then seeing coverage of the parties just past the yellow glow of the castro theatre sign, and giggling a little too.
 
as an aside, this morning we visited some of the zen temples on the outskirts. in addition to the above, it was surreal realizing that at the moment that the polls were closing in the US, we were looking upon a stone garden whose 15 perfectly placed rocks are regaled as the ultimate zen expression and that those stones and raked pebbles have not moved in centuries. zen garden here…..the height of political broohaha there. i like to think that modern zen is finding enjoyment in both. an ultramodern zen is realizing that you can say that only because you just knew that the good team won.
 
so, my 100 yen time on the computer is about up and its time to celebrate with many many beers. so i say to you all what i meant to say 4 paragraphs ago…congratu-fucking-lations, and "Kompai!" from japan.
 
from kyoto with love,
s
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November 3 2008

Nihon de Update #2: Kyoto haz ur illushuns

Hey kids,
 
It’s a gorgeous (subarashi) day in Kyoto, my new favorite city (outside SF of course). I’m on the 7th floor of a crafts building, after getting a lesson in Japanese sword making on the first floor. Apparently beneath the wrapping of the handle, they’re made of sharkskin. Huh. Sorry Matt, swords are about a grand and they’re real and they will cut you good, so don’t expect one. Sumimasen onegeishimasu.
 
Anyhow, this morning we walked the "philosopher’s path" along the canal, and all of life’s answers passed by with the water. All except when, given the time difference and international date line, when-the-fuck, and how-the-fuck can I watch the election? Still working that one out, but please see me for all other questions.
 
So…Kyoto. It is indeed the San Francisco of Japan. It was touch-and-go for our illusionment/disillusionment there for a bit. Tokyo is pretty much the NYC of Japan, so it’s full of fun but man it’s big. The three-hour train ride, on a shinkansen (aka computer-controlled cornering, faster than your mother), had us a bit worried about this whole spendor of Japan thing. Three hours of ininterrupted housing between Tokyo and Osaka. Yes, Mt Fuji is stunning in the distance, but you’d expect there to be a break in the housing over the course of three hours, right? Nope. It was as if Queens, NY stretched uninterrupted from Manhattan to Chicago. Uh…where’s this traditional Japan I’ve been seeking? Where’s the ceramic roofs? Where the fuck is the Japan in my mind?
 
Well, after leaving Osaka and climbing Mount Koya (spiritual center of Japanese Buddhism) via a shinkansen, subway, subway, train, another train, another train, (where the fuck are we going…holding our breath…where is everyone?) and then a 45 degree angled cable car straight up the mountain (holy crap this is crazy), and then back down after a lovely visit to Koyason complete with two traditional meals (dinner and breakfast in the monastery, on my knees which promptly feel asleep), and a conversation with a Buddhist monk about Thelonius Monk…we travelled to Kyoto. At this point, navigating the trains became relaxed and easy. Don’t listen to what anyone says…very very few people speak english here, but man the train system is fucking superb. the germans have nothing on these guys.
 
So yes, pardon the schizophrenia…I’m rushing because it’s lunchtime/Kirin-time. The mountains, the hills, and Kyoto are every bit the Japan I hoped for. Kyoto kicked off with the best stone bowl of piping hot Udon noodle soup with beef and burdock (which I nearly scalded my fingers with while trying to portion it into a bowl…), and has continued to impress. (i.e. random backalley restaurant last night…tank of "ika" = cuttlefish. Hai, hutatsu sushi, onegeishimasu, and a full mackeral on the robata grill).  
 
Time to peruse the ninja weapons. Just kidding. Or am I?
 
shitsureishumasu,
s

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October 31 2008

Nihon de update #1: Konnichiwa bitches

All is splendid in the land of the rising sun. Angie & I hooked up with our jet-setting friend Zach
when we got here, had some drinks, some gyoza and soup, and passed
out…then woke up at 5am and hit the Tsukiji fish market (might as
well when we were jet-lagged anyway). It was everything you can hope
it can be. We ate fish that might have been still breathing. Oh man.

A little market-going, scampered around electric town (memory cards
are dirt cheap) said goodbye to zach, lunched at this crazy delicious
tempura bar, and trained to the outskirts to visit the ghibli museum
which is a wacked out animated fantasy wonderland. the we passed the
fuck out. way early. oh yeah. also, the subway map that looks like a
ball of yarn…best subway in the world.

now to some tea…

also, as you can see, i havent found the apostrophe on this
newfangled japanese keyboard.

who needs an apostrophe when you have squiggles everywhere anyway.
tomorrow we:re off to the
monastery…

shitsureishimasu,
s

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October 24 2008

And, for an easily related story, a man who makes sculptures out of bundles of chopsticks. A tale of love between him and a patron-less broom shop owner?  Hell yeah.

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200810221040

According to the Tokyo Times, this Tokyo broom store hasn’t had a customer since 9/2/72, and even that customer wanted a hand broom which they could not provide. Sad, in an awesome sort of way. What a great character/setting to frame a story…who owns this shop?

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April 7 2008


Japan sings Turkey

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